Bone China Expert Sculptor, Peter Holland Explains All About
Armature and Clay

Different clay need different solutions.

1. Ceramic Clay

2. Oil-based Clay (plasteline)

Advice On How To Support Your Sculpt

When using ceramic clay (I have always used and would only use potclays 1150 - for detailed figurines). I NEVER use any internal wire support. If part of the piece needs support (an arm etc) I would use an external prop made from the same clay as the piece.

When it comes to firing (I never actually fire my factory pieces though) the external prop would be removed and a 'kiln prop' used for the firing. See photo below where the weight of the two arms and the tambourine are supported by a clay rod.

TOP TIP

As I mention in both the Online Sculpture Lesson: and the Sculpting Tutorials, you will be working on a damp plaster of paris bat. To anchor the piece and to stop it moving around you can drill a small hole through the bat and place a nail up through the bat and the sculpture. Not very high tech - but it works fine.

I want flexibility with my models, so I can adjust and readjust the design until I'm happy with it. In order to achieve this you need flexible internal support. Make an accurately scaled down 'pin-man' (or lady) made from wire and Miliput.

Having an accurately scaled base to your figure ensures you don't get awkward problems later on in the sculpt.

For all the different sizes of figure I sculpt (8", 10", 15" etc), I have a diagram which I call an "armature guide". Simply a scaled down pin-man (lady) drawing. This then serves as a ready reference when making the wire pin-man.

All the joints are left movable. I put the plasteline clay on and rough out a piece until such time as I am happy with the position of the sculpt. Then I cut into the clay to reveal the flexible points and then seal the joint with milliput for strength.

This clever sculpture technique ensures the piece does not move out of position by accident.