Kinds of Clay For Sculpting Figures & Figurines

Introduction: Choosing the Right Kinds of Clay For Sculpting Figures & Figurines

If you were wondering what kinds of clay for sculpting figures that are used in professional work, this page serves as a foundational overview of various clay mediums used in sculpture. It is intended to help both new and experienced artists work out which material might best suit their specific project needs, whether for fine art, mold-making, or professional figurine development.

The kinds of clay for sculpting figures we will be covering are ceramic, plasteline, and polymer clays in depth here. If you are looking for dedicated, in-depth tutorials on each medium, be sure to check out
Andrew Joseph Keith's videos on this subject.

Selecting the right modeling clay depends on four key factors. Understanding these will save you time, money, and frustration:

1. Your Skill Level

Complete Beginner: Start with polymer clay (Sculpey or Fimo). It's the most forgiving, requires no special equipment beyond a home oven, and you can experiment without expensive mistakes. Your first few attempts can be baked and kept as learning pieces.

Intermediate Sculptor: Progress to plasteline for larger projects or ceramic clay if you want permanent, display-quality work. Both require more technique but offer professional results.

Professional/Advanced: Ceramic clay for kiln-fired durability and collectible-quality figurines. This is the medium used by bone china manufacturers like Royal Worcester and Coalport. Ceramic clays fall into three categories: earthenware (lowest firing, porous), stoneware (higher firing, can be vitrified), and porcelain (highest firing, translucent). Most figurine sculpting uses stoneware bodies like Potclays 1150.

2. Budget Constraints

Cost varies significantly by clay type:

• Ceramic clay: £8-15 for 10kg (enough for 5-10 small figurines)
• Plasteline: £15-30 per kg (reusable indefinitely, so cost-per-project decreases)
• Polymer clay: £3-5 per 56g block (expensive by weight, but little waste)

Budget tip: Ceramic clay offers the best value for permanent work. Plasteline is cost-effective for practice and master models you'll mold from.

3. Project End-Use

What happens to your sculpture after completion?

• Display piece or gift: Ceramic clay (fired for permanence) or polymer clay (oven-hardened)
• Master model for mold-making: Plasteline (never hardens, allowing perfect mold release)
• Practice or study: Plasteline (reusable) or cheap ceramic clay
• Jewelry or small decorative items: Polymer clay (precise detail, home-oven convenience)

4. Available Equipment

Your workspace determines which clay is practical:

The bottom line: Most professional sculptors eventually work with all three types for different applications. But if you're starting today, polymer clay offers the lowest barrier to entry, while ceramic clay provides the best long-term value and professional results.

Talking about clay for sculpting figures is very fun, but let's get our health and safety hats on for a moment. Working safely with modeling clay is straightforward, but each clay type has specific considerations. Here's what you need to know:

Ceramic Clay Safety

Primary concern: Silica dust

Dry ceramic clay produces fine silica dust which, when inhaled repeatedly over years, can cause silicosis (lung scarring). Professional sculptors take this seriously.

Safe practices:

• Never sand or scrape dry clay: Always work with damp clay. If you must sand fired pieces, wear a proper dust mask (N95 minimum, P100 better) and work outdoors or with ventilation.
• Wet-clean your workspace: Use damp sponge rather than sweeping or dry-wiping. This prevents dust becoming airborne.
• Wash hands thoroughly: Before eating or touching face. Clay particles transfer easily.
• Separate food and clay areas: Never use kitchen tools for clay work. Even trace amounts of clay are unpleasant if ingested.

Workspace needs: Washable surface (plastic table cover works well), access to water for cleaning, adequate lighting. Plaster bat for moisture control. Temperature 18-22°C ideal—too cold and clay stiffens, too hot and it dries too quickly.

Plasteline Safety

Primary concern: Generally very safe clay for sculpting figures and other projects.

Plasteline (professional oil-based clay) is non-toxic and produces no dust or fumes. This is why it's industry standard for film and special effects work.

Safe practices:

• Hand washing: Oil-based clay can be stubborn to remove. Use hand cleaner designed for oil/grease (like Swarfega) before soap and water.
• Heating safely: When softening plasteline, never overheat. Use low microwave power or warm (not hot) water. Overheated plasteline can cause minor burns.
• Avoid ingestion: While non-toxic, plasteline contains oils and fillers not meant for consumption. Keep away from young children who might mouth objects.

Workspace needs: Any stable work surface. Room temperature 18-24°C—plasteline is easier to work in warmer environments. Good lighting essential for detail work. No special ventilation required.

Polymer Clay Safety (CRITICAL INFORMATION)

Primary concerns: Oven fumes and food safety

Workspace needs: Well-ventilated area (window that opens). Dedicated work surface with washable cover. Oven with accurate temperature control. Optional: small convection oven dedicated to polymer clay (better temperature control than home oven). Storage away from heat sources.

Child Safety Considerations

Safest option for children: Polymer clay under adult supervision. Non-toxic, no sharp tools required for basic work, and controlled baking process.

Avoid for young children:

• Ceramic clay: Dust concerns, requires kiln access (extreme heat danger), heavy equipment.
• Plasteline: Generally safe but can be frustrating for small hands (too hard to manipulate). Professional grades are not marketed for children.

Note on "Plasticine": The brightly colored children's product is distinct from professional plasteline. It's safe for young children but unsuitable for serious sculpting.

General Workspace Safety

Regardless of clay type:

• Good lighting prevents eye strain: Natural light is ideal; supplement with daylight-spectrum LED bulbs.
• Ergonomic setup prevents injury: Adjustable-height turntable, proper chair support, work surface at comfortable height.
• Regular breaks prevent repetitive strain: Every 45-60 minutes, stand, stretch, rest eyes.
• First aid basics: Keep plasters/bandages handy. Clay tools can cause minor cuts. Wash any cuts immediately and thoroughly.

Every sculptor encounters these challenges. Here are proven solutions from decades of professional experience:

Ceramic Clay Issues

Problem: My sculpture cracked during drying

Causes & Solutions:

• Dried too quickly: Slow drying is critical. Cover with plastic bag, opening gradually over 5-7 days rather than 1-2 days.
• Uneven thickness: Thick and thin sections dry at different rates, creating stress cracks. Hollow out thick areas to maintain even 1-2cm walls throughout.
• Air pockets trapped: Score and slip all joins thoroughly. Trapped air expands as clay dries, causing cracks or explosions in the kiln.

Problem: Clay is too soft and won't hold detail

Solution: Let it firm up on a plaster bat for 30-60 minutes. You want leather-hard consistency—moist but firm enough that finger pressure barely dents it. This is the ideal state for fine detail work.

Problem: Clay dried out before I finished

Prevention: Always keep work covered with a clear plastic bag when not actively sculpting. Mist with water spray bottle every 15-20 minutes during work sessions.

Recovery: If bone-dry, you can sometimes reconstitute by wrapping in damp towels for 24-48 hours, sealed in plastic. Success depends on how long it was dry.

Plasteline Issues

Problem: Plasteline is too hard to work

Solutions:

• Body heat method: Knead small amounts in your hands for 5-10 minutes until pliable.
• Microwave method: 10-second bursts on low power, kneading between. Be careful—overheating creates unusable, oily clay.
• Warm water bath: Seal clay in ziplock bag, submerge in warm (not hot) water for 15-30 minutes.
• Buy softer grade: If consistently struggling, switch from hard to medium plasteline.

Problem: Plasteline is too soft and detail smears

Solution: Mix in harder grade plasteline (1 part hard to 2 parts soft works well). Alternatively, briefly chill in refrigerator for 30 minutes to firm up before fine detail work.

Problem: Old plasteline has separated or become grainy

Solution: This happens with age and temperature cycling. Knead thoroughly—it's tedious but usually recovers. For severely degraded clay, warm and knead in small amounts of mineral oil.

Polymer Clay Issues

Problem: Sculpture broke after baking

Causes & Solutions:

• Under-baked: Most polymer clay needs 30 minutes at 130°C per 6mm thickness. Thick pieces need longer. Use oven thermometer—many ovens run 10-20°C off.
• Too thin or unsupported: Thin extensions (arms, legs) need internal wire armature for strength. Add aluminum wire or floral wire before sculpting.
• Sudden temperature change: Let cool completely in oven before removing. Thermal shock causes cracks.

Problem: Surface is shiny/scorched or has brown spots

Solution: Temperature too high. Verify oven temperature with thermometer. Many run hot. Cover sculpture with aluminum foil tent to prevent scorching while still allowing proper curing.

Problem: Colors look different after baking

Solution: This is normal—polymer clay darkens slightly during curing. Test-bake color samples before committing to large projects. Translucent clays yellow with overbaking.

Problem: Clay is crumbly and won't blend smoothly

Causes & Solutions:

• Old or improperly stored: Polymer clay has 2-5 year shelf life. Add a few drops of polymer clay softener (or mineral oil as emergency measure) and knead thoroughly.
• Leached plasticizer: If stored on paper/cardboard, plasticizers can leach out. Always store in plastic containers or bags.

What is the best clay for sculpting beginners?

Polymer clay (Sculpey or Fimo) is the best choice of clay for sculpting figures for complete beginners. It requires no special equipment beyond a home oven, doesn't dry out while you work, holds fine detail well, and is forgiving of mistakes. You can complete your first project in a single afternoon—sculpt, bake, and have a permanent finished piece. Once comfortable with basic techniques, progress to ceramic clay for professional-quality work or plasteline for larger practice projects.

Can you fire polymer clay in a kiln?

No, never fire polymer clay in a kiln. Polymer clay cures at low temperatures (130°C/265°F) in a standard home oven for 30 minutes. Kiln temperatures (1000°C+) would completely incinerate polymer clay, producing toxic fumes and ruining your kiln. Polymer clay is PVC-based plastic, not ceramic material. Only ceramic (water-based) clay can be kiln-fired.

What's the difference between plasticine and plasteline?

Plasticine is a brand-name children's modeling compound—brightly colored, soft, and marketed for play. It's an unsuitable clay for sculpting figures for serious sculpting.

Plasteline (also called plastalina or oil-based clay) is professional modeling material used in film studios, special effects, and fine art. It comes in hard, medium, and soft grades, never dries out, and can be refined to extremely fine detail. Professional plasteline costs significantly more but offers precision and re-usability that children's plasticine as a clay for sculpting figures cannot match.

Is air dry clay good for sculpting?

Air dry clay works for craft projects and children's activities, but has serious limitations for quality sculpting:

• Weak structure: Air-dried pieces are fragile and cannot achieve the strength of fired ceramic or properly cured polymer clay.
• Prone to cracking: Dries unevenly, causing frequent cracks and warping.
• Poor detail retention: Shrinks unpredictably during drying, distorting fine details.
• Not waterproof: Redissolves if exposed to moisture unless sealed extensively.

For permanent, display-quality sculpture, use ceramic clay (kiln-fired) or polymer clay (oven-cured) instead. Both offer far superior strength, detail, and longevity.

Can I use ceramic clay without a kiln?

Yes, but with limitations. You can create beautiful, detailed sculptures with ceramic clay and leave them unfired (called "greenware"). However, unfired ceramic clay remains fragile, dissolves in water, and cannot be handled roughly. It's suitable for temporary master models for mold-making, or delicate display pieces kept behind glass. For permanent, durable work, kiln access is essential. Many communities offer kiln rental or firing services—search for local pottery studios, community colleges, or ceramic supply shops that provide firing services for £5-15 per piece.

How much does modeling clay cost?

Prices vary significantly by type of clay for sculpting figures:

• Ceramic clay: £8-15 for 10kg (excellent value, lowest cost per project)
• Plasteline: £15-30 per kg (higher initial cost, but reusable indefinitely)
• Polymer clay: £3-5 per 56g block (most expensive by weight, but minimal waste for small projects)

For beginners, start with 2-3 blocks of polymer clay (£10-15 total) to test if you enjoy sculpting. If you commit to the craft, invest in 5-10kg of ceramic clay (£10-20) which provides material for months of practice.

What tools do I need for clay sculpting?

Absolute basics for starting (under £20):

• Simple wooden modeling tools (5-piece set: £8-12)
• Craft knife or blade (for cutting/trimming: £3-5)
• Spray bottle for water (ceramic clay only: £2-3)
• Smooth work surface or turntable (lazy susan works: £5-10)

Intermediate additions (£30-50 more):

• Wire-end tools for detail work
• Proportional dividers for measuring
• Ribbon tools for hollowing
• Proper rotating sculpture turntable

See our comprehensive Tools for Clay Sculpting - Basic to Advanced for detailed recommendations at every skill level of how to work clay for sculpting figures.

How long does it take to learn clay sculpting?

Basic competence: 3-6 months of regular practice (2-3 sessions per week) to create recognizable, satisfying simple figures.

Intermediate skill: 1-3 years to develop personal style, understand proportions intuitively, and produce work you're proud to display or gift.

Professional mastery: 5-10+ years (the classic "10,000 hours") to achieve factory-commission quality, consistent precision, and collector-grade refinement.

However, progress varies enormously by individual talent, practice frequency, and quality of instruction. Some natural sculptors create impressive work within months; others take years to develop confidence. The key is consistent practice—even 30 minutes daily produces faster progress than occasional marathon sessions.

Can you sculpt with regular pottery clay?

Yes, absolutely, but you will not get the precise bone china factory grade finishing with a non specific modeling clay. "Pottery clay" and "ceramic clay" are the same thing—water-based earthenware or stoneware clay. The clay used for throwing pots on a wheel works perfectly for hand-sculpted figurines. In fact, most professional bone china figurines for Royal Worcester, Coalport, and Royal Doulton start as sculptures made from standard pottery clay (often Potclays 1150 or similar). The key is choosing clay with fine particle size that can hold detail—avoid heavily-grogged clays meant for architectural work, which are too coarse for detailed sculpting.

What kind of clay for sculpting figures is better for miniatures: polymer or ceramic clay?

Polymer clay is superior for miniature work (anything under 4 inches/10cm tall) for several reasons:

• No shrinkage: Polymer clay maintains exact dimensions after curing. Ceramic clay shrinks 10-15% during drying and firing, making precise miniature work extremely difficult.
• Structural stability at small scale: Tiny polymer clay elements (thin arms, delicate fingers) remain strong after baking. Ceramic clay at miniature scale is extremely fragile unless fired to high temperatures.
• No cracking: Small ceramic pieces crack easily during drying if thickness varies even slightly. Polymer avoids this entirely.

Ceramic clay works better for larger figurines (8 ish inches or more) where its strength after firing, lower cost, and professional finishing options outweigh the shrinkage challenge. It also can be prepared for slip casting easily.

Do I need an armature for clay sculpture?

It depends on your clay type and sculpture design:

Ceramic clay: Generally NO armature for bone china figurine work. Internal wire would interfere with slip-casting production. Instead, sculptors carefully balance forms and use strategic thickness to support weight.

Polymer clay: YES for any extended elements (arms, legs, necks) or sculpture over 6 inches tall. Use aluminum wire or wire mesh as internal support. The armature remains in place permanently after baking and prevents breakage.

Plasteline: YES for large sculptures or anything that will stand unsupported. Use aluminum wire armature or wooden support structures. Since plasteline never hardens, internal support is essential for poses that would otherwise collapse under their own weight.

Discover the Value of Your Fine China

The sculpting and molding principles discussed on this page are the very foundations of the high-quality figurines and tableware created by historic bone china manufacturers.

If you own vintage pieces or inherited sets, leverage our expert resources to identify patterns, understand their provenance, and accurately value your china collection.

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